Welcome to this LFW season — a fashion time machine. All aboard!
Deborah Lyons, who cleverly presented her collection aboard the Eurostar last September, hosted a Valentine’s Day jazz night in the iconic Burlington Arcade for AW19. When asked about her diverse fashion presentation formats, Lyons said, “we tend to choose alternative presentation formats because we feel it creates an opportunity for our audience to step into our world and familiarize themselves with the brand in a more intimate format.”
Fashion has always embraced recycling expressions and reinventing pre-disposed trends and lacing them with new stylish perspectives. This season, more than usual, brought us back to beige, back to the 90s, and then back to the future.
Back to Beige
Burberry’s Ricardo Tisci once said, “Black is always elegant. It is the most complete color in the whole world, made of all the colors in the palette.” Maybe that is true, but this season we didn’t see designers going back to black, but rather most designers opted for shades of beige. And not just designers and catwalks, but London’s street style and trendsetters collectively affirmed beige as the go-to autumn/winter color from head to toe.
Back to the 90s
90s nostalgia is real. This LFW transported us back to the 90s via oversized, colorful puffer jackets, schoolgirl-esque uniforms, oversized pantsuits, and velvet galore. Notably, each designer put their own stylish perspective on the 90s-reminiscent looks. Specifically, Wesley Harriott’s collection drew upon anime and Jamie Wei Huang took us back to an exam setting with her “roaming boy” AW19 collection. Finally, TOGA set up their catwalk in a leisure centre (AKA a gym).
Back to the Future
Overall, the LFW AW19 schedule included 52 designers, 31 presentations, and 17 events over the week. The catwalk line-up included well-known brands Burberry, Christopher Kane, David Koma, Peter Pilotto, Victoria Beckham, Vivienne Westwood and more.
Noteworthy presentations included Natalie B. Coleman and Edeline Lee. Natalie B. Coleman collaborated with the United Nations Population Fund titling her collection “SISTERS” – which was fitting since the collection itself is about the collaborative power of sisterhood. Meanwhile, Edeline Lee’s presentation featured prominent women from diverse fields delivering powerful messages from their experiences and highlighting the importance of women’s voices being heard.
At the renowned St. George’s (Bloomsbury), David Koma presented his AW19 collection which stressed careful craftsmanship and uniquely celebrated the feminine form. Koma’s collection was a Renaissance runway featuring tailored trimmings, silk and velvet structures, and armour-esque amplifications.
Finally, we went “wild” for Victor Wong’s AW19 eyewear collection. The collection, carefully crafted with silk gauze lens, was inspired by African nomads and invited the audience to embark on a safari through the African wilderness. Looks like beauty really is in the eye of beholder – the beholder of these Victor Wong glasses!
The main talk of this fashion season, however, surrounds the passing of a true fashion legend, Karl Lagerfeld. Lagerfeld, a creative director, fashion designer, artist, and photographer reshaped the fashion industry over the last 35 years. May he rest in peace as his fashion legacy is forever celebrated – both now and in the fashion future to come.
Now that we have disembarked our back to the (fashion) future time machine and returned to 2019, we simply cannot wait to see what LFW in September will bring.